With its ancient cobbled streets and lovely waterfront, it’s a shame that a lot of visitors whizz straight past Preveza. The small town in Greece’s far north-west has a commanding position at the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. Its tumultuous history has resulted in an architecturally rich settlement, with gems such as the Kastro Pantokrator castle, an early 19th-century fort, relics from Venetian and Ottoman periods and the all-painted church of Agios Athanasios.
An hour’s walk from town is one of Europe’s longest sandy beaches, 25km Monolithi, with camping available (campingmonolithi.gr). For great seafood, try Taverna O Kaixis, just off the waterfront, or the slightly pricier Amvrosios. There is a huge choice of day trips: for nature, try the Acheron river canyon and Amvrakikos Wetlands (to spot pelicans); for ancient history, the mosaics and odeon at Nikopolis, a few kilometres north of the city, and the ruined city of Cassope.
Where to stay Captain’s House Boutique Hotel (doubles from €60) was built in 1896, the year of the first modern Olympic Games, held in Athens. The captain refers to original owner, Captain George Potamianos, whose eldest son bought the place in 1973.
Getting there EasyJet flies from Gatwick and Manchester until late October, from £50 return.